The NEC allows you to install larger wires on smaller amp rated
breakers rated in amps lower than the ampacity of your
conductors. The NEC forbids you to install smaller wires on
larger amprated breakers rated in amps higher than the ampacity
of your conductors.
This means that the breaker or fuse must be rated in amps equal
to and must not be higher amp rated than the smallest wire on
that circuit.
12 awg cu. wire is rated in ampacity of 20 amps for all wiring
designs other than motors.
14 awg cu. wire is rated in ampacity of 15 amps for all wiring
designs other than motors.
Therefore if you have a branch circuit that has both 12 awg and
14 awg conductors in the wiring design of that one branch circuit
then you must size the overcurrent device protecting that branch
circuit in amp rating equal to the smallest conductor in the
branch circuit being 14 awg. therefore a 15 amp breaker or fuse
is the maximum overcurrent device allowed to protect that branch
circuit with 14 awg in that branch circuit's wiring design.
This is true no matter whether this is a single light fixture or
switch leg. If there is 14 awg wire in that 12 awg branch circuit
then you have a 15 amp rated circuit.
There is an exception considering light fixtures where a tap 1/3
the ampacity of the original branch circuit is allowed to be
tapped off that larger branch circuit. The limitation of this
light fixture tap rule is 18" maximum length. Switch legs or
lighting runs are longer than 18" therefore the tap rule can not
be used.
Code references are 240-3 ampacity of smaller conductors 14 awg
through 10 awg. 210-19-D taps not over 18".
Hope this helps
Wg
re: Wiring up a can light.
|
dan |
4:12 pm wednesday september 19, 2001 |
Thanks for the info. I am still a little confused though. Does
this mean since I have a 20 amp fuse connecting both the 14 and
12 gauge wire, I have another branch or
breaker somewhere that protects the 14 gauge wire or is my circuit
breaker actually a 15 amp circuit breaker labeled incorrectly as
20 amps?
or does the fact that any part of the wire is 14 gauge wire
automatically make the circuit a 15 amp rated circuit no matter
what it says on the box?
re: Wiring up a can light.
|
wirenuts |
5:16 pm wednesday september 19, 2001 |
Dan;
the breaker needs to be the 'weak link' in the chain. If there is
any #14, then it must be energized ONLY via a 15 A breaker. This
is the short sweet version, there are exceptions as Warren
stated, but for what i'm reading and your purposes you must get a
15A breaker, it will not 'automatically' reduce it's fault level.
re: Wiring up a can light
|
Warren Goodrich |
9:28 pm wednesday september 19, 2001 |
As Wirenuts says. Your 20 amp breaker must be changed to a 15 amp
breaker if you have any 14 awg wire in that circuit at all.
The 20 amp breaker has too high of an amp rating to protect that
14 awg wire that has a maximum amp rating of 15 amps in the
wiring system you have.
Good Luck
Wg
re: Wiring up a can light.
|
dan |
12:37 pm monday september 24, 2001 |
Thanks for your help. I do have one other questions. I have
tapped power from a middle of the run outlet to get power to my
can light and switch. The actual wall outlet looks like all the
connections were push in connections so I took the 14 gauge wire
I have and attached it to the screw on terminals that were not
being used to get power (black to black, white to white and
hooked up the ground). Is there any problem in doing this?
re: Wiring up a can light
|
Warren Goodrich |
8:56 am wednesday september 26, 2001 |
No there is no problem with using those empty screws on that
receptacle when your other wires are using the back stab
connection of that same receptacle. However keep in mind that the
back stab connections have a history of coming back to haunt you
due to loose connections caused by the springs deteriating in
their tension capabilities if heavily used with power. 14 awg 15
amp loads usually don't cause the problem. 12 awg with 20 amp
resistant loads such as toasters, portable heaters may cause this
loose connection problem to appear. Just keep that in mind if you
start having intermittent power loss in the future. This can
happen at any back stab receptacles throughout the home. Just a
bit of history.
good luck
Wg
This is 1 item from the Home Wiring
Forum Archives, to go to the main page of the forum archives then click HERE.
To go to the main page of the Home
Wiring Site , click HERE.